It’s official! When I’m not carrying food but a tank full of water my backpack weighs in at 18kg. With food it’s around 20kg. I had a weigh-in this morning at the camping/caravan park where I stayed last night. And I figure I’ve lost about 7kg bodyweight so far on the walk.

Today I passed through the prettiest town yet on this journey. The entrance into Arenzano was a series of boardwalks and carefully paved walkways, and avenues of trees. The beaches were colourful with their lemon, blue and white and red and white change sheds with umbrellas and deck chairs to match. The further south-west I go along the Mediterranean coast the more sophisticated have become the seaside
resorts. It appears like a lot of effort has gone into presenting the beaches with excellent facilities for the sun worshipers who, surprisingly, are few in number at present.

I took my first food break leaning against a palm tree in a park by the sea which was less than a stone’s throw away. When walking along these beachfront pathways lots of possible stop locations present themselves. It becomes a matter of instinct to press on in the hope of a better spot. So far I’ve not been disappointed when I’ve decided to continue on looking for a little nirvana.

I love the way building facades around windows, doors and on corners are painted three dimensionally to give the impression that they are cement rendered with adornments. I recently saw a building with a solid wall painted to look like it had shutter windows on all three stories with some of the shutters open.

Between Arenzano and Cogoleto I walked through a series of tunnels that probably were once used by a train but which now are dedicated solely for the use of walkers and cyclists. There was very little of today’s walk which was not on a dedicated
pathway. There was just little road walking mid way through the day. Although I’m used to it there is always a nervous feeling when I’m rounding a blind corner facing the direction of but not being able to see the oncoming traffic. Sometimes drivers get such a start when they see me I witness their sudden change of line through a corner. It’s a little tougher on motor cycles to correct their line. There’s been a few curses from them, but there is no safer way of negotiating the roadway.

Varazze, about 10km from where I am tonight, is another of those impressive beachfront towns. It has a very large harbour with hundreds upon hundreds of
moored boats just sitting there being bleached by the sun. In one sense it struck me
as being such a wasteful sight. But Varazzze at its south-western end did have what looked like a mini botanical garden with carefully laid out plots in which were growing different varieties of grasses, shrubs and trees.

I faced a quite strong northerly wind from about late morning until my arrival into Albissola Marina. Just next door is the town of Albissola Superior, but it didn’t look the way it is named. Albissola Marina is very interesting. A walk around this afternoon revealed a number of art galleries and ceramic shops. I watched through open windows of two potters studios as they went about their work. It seems
incongrous that a seaside town should have this type of influence. The walls of the restaurant I ate at tonight were covered with paintings and ceramics. The art influence spreads beyond the galleries.

I may have a rest day tomorrow. I’m nursing a crook right knee at present. I’ve had soreness in it for a couple of days now. I’m sure I know what the problem is and I’ve been working on it, but it might just need a day of rest and there won’t be a better this side of the French border to rest than Albissola Marina. Older and wiser, green day remained no less faithful to the punk my homework do not finish and reading ethos that made them famous