It wasn’t such a good night’s sleep. Two mosquitoes were tag-teaming me around 5.00am. I got one but the other made repeated raids until I was forced to get up. Breakfast of cake and a cup of tea isn’t really my ‘go’ but it was all the hotel bar had to offer.

What a miserable day for walking. I was getting ready to leave the hotel when the lightning started flashing and the thunder boomed. It was time to wait and see. Then the skies opened up for about fifteen minutes. I got in about an hour of rain-free walking before it started. It didn’t stop before I got off the streets eight hours later. By the early afternoon my boots had taken in so much water it felt like I had
puddles strapped to my feet. A strong wind came up and blew the rain sideways. I should be grateful that this is the first day of steady rain. On my 2008 Camino it rained for the first thirteen days, however, I don’t recall it being as persistent as today. I checked the skies around 8.30pm and there were a few breaks in the clouds, but when I went out again at 10.30pm light rain began to fall. Here’s hoping for a better day tomorrow.

I experienced a lot of generosity today. As I was walking through the village of Mogro I was ready to eat. I’d been walking for two hours when I saw a dry strip of concrete under a verandah on the side of a house. It was accessible from the street. As I moved onto it an elderly woman opened a window. I asked her if I could eat there, pointing to the dry area. She unhesitatingly agreed. Further on I came to a fork in two streets. I took the right side. I only went about 20 metres and stopped, looking for a yellow arrow. I heard someone yell out. When I looked around about 40 metres away a woman was leaning out of her window waving an arm in the direction I should have taken. About the same time a man came out of a bar and did the same thing. Such goodwill towards pilgrims.

I didn’t realise when I stopped to eat a third time that I was just 500 metres from my
destination which was on the other side of a rise. When I got to Santillana del Mar I had to check with a shop keeper to make sure I was actually in that village. When you see pilgrims leaving an albergue late in the afternoon it’s a sure sign that it is full. That was the case with the one in this village which has just 16 beds. I went with the two other pilgrims to two pensions, the first was full and the second had rooms, but upon hearing the price I chose to move on to the next town about 11km down the road and try my luck there. I didn’t really want to go anywhe but to a warm room and take off my wet clothes and boots. On my way through the village I saw a hotel and decided it was for me. It ended up being a��20 cheaper than the
pension, and the price includes breakfast. My room is small and now looks like a laundry. I’ve been giving the hair dryer a workout.

Santillana del Mar is a medieval town of stone paved streets. It’s a designated heritage site and has been one of Cantabria’s best known cultural and tourist centres for decades. It was once the capital of a medieval jurisdiction which comprised the present day province of Cantabria. The world famous Altamira caves which were occupied thousand of years ago are just two kilometres from the village centre. The first monastery was founded here between the eighth and ninth centuries and housed
the remains of St Juliana, the saint from whom the town’s name is derived. This is one of those places that needs a few days to have avoid look around. Can’t do this time. I’ll be on the road again tomorrow.

Mix in a bank vault alarm sample and a drawling verse i finished my homework what do i do now from ludacris and you’ve got a mainstream breakthrough for crunk, the hip hop subgenre that would flood the charts in the early part of the decade